Ah ha! Without trying to sound pessimistic, 'what could go wrong' is a very good question and one that strikes fear in the heart of ferret owners. We can do everything right and still be faced with some of the hardest decisions we'll have to make in our lives when it comes to our four legged family's health and wellbeing. Don't we always say the worst kind of fear is that of the unknown? Our best defence, then, and the key to the healthiest possible relationship with our ferret is preparation.

Veterinarians

One of the scariest moments we can be faced with is when our loved ones are sick and we aren't sure how to help. We want to and need to put our trust in someone who can, like a doctor. Though doctors cannot be expected to be without fault and with all the answers, they are the experts when it comes to these situations.

Ferrets are special pets to say the least. They are not cats, they are not dogs and they are certainly not reptiles or pocket pets. They stand in a class all their own. Their resiliency and tenacity make them great candidates for treatment options that would be unethical in other animals, yet at the same time 'crashing' much faster in medical situations than a cat or a dog would. That being said, it is of the utmost importance to have a ferret knowledgeable veterinarian in your area

The first step is establishing a relationship with a regular ferret-friendly vet. Veterinarians with experience dealing with ferrets provide a number of benefits. Specialties and overall abilities will vary between practices but having a comfort level with these odd creatures is a must.

• First of all, there can be a quicker and less expensive diagnosis of what is considered a 'run of the mill' type issue for a ferret knowledgeable vet such as adrenal disease. Diagnostic tools can be used effectively while unnecessary x-rays or other costly tests can be avoided.
• With experience, there comes a faster and more effective decision making process. Knowing when to skip steps and go right to surgical intervention in a timely manner can save the life of your fuzzy. For example, an obstruction caused by something your ferret swallowed can be a matter of life and death that requires immediate surgery.
• A vet's comfort level with a ferret can decrease the stress level of the pet during handling and assessment.
• A vet with ferret experience will have a better knowledge base when discussing non-invasive and therapeutic treatment options, and nutrition alternatives. We all know how picky our fuzz butts can be and how quickly they can fall behind when they have a poor appetite.
• It is important to understand ferret physiology, and how they differ significantly from other species in response or tolerance of medical interventions. A good example would be long term, high dose prednisone therapy which is poorly tolerated in most pets but seems to be an effective treatment plan with ferrets. Also, certain disease processes such as adrenal disease mean very different things between species such as cats and ferrets.
• Even surgical considerations are special when dealing with ferrets. Most vets will not suggest fasting a night before a surgery because of the increased risk of hypoglycaemic or low blood sugar levels in ferrets which can have devastating effects.
• Ferret vets recognize how devastating untreated dehydration can be in a short time frame as compared to other pets that may be 'off their food'.

Emergency Hours

Now, after reading all this, I have some very bad news. Your super duper ferret vet cannot and will not be available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, no matter how you beg and bribe. We've tried.....Great, now what? Anyone who has dealt with ferret emergencies knows that they generally occur on a weekend night when no one is available. This is where having a plan B is important.

• Get to know the different emergency options in your area. For example, in Ottawa we have 2 emergency clinics available 24-7.
• Call and ask who the ferret knowledgeable veterinarians are and write down the names so if needed, you can call ahead and see if one of them are on call. There is no guarantee the appropriate vet will be working when you need them but you will have considerable peace of mind knowing whom to ask for.
• A veterinarian recently suggested that in a scenario where the vets have not had a lot of experience with ferrets, and none that do are available, then: '.when in doubt, think cat and you can't go wrong in the short term.'
• Always follow up with your own vet during regular clinic hours.
• Be your ferret's advocate and know as much as you can about ferret disease processes, treatment and so on. Do your research! Read everything you can get your hands on about ferrets. Join forums on the web and gain the benefit of others' experiences and knowledge. Having special pets like these means we have an increased responsibility to be aware of their potential health issues.

Know your pet

This rings true in any pet, family member or even your own health. Know what is normal first so you can recognize what is not quite right sooner.

• Wellness checks are important for ferrets as many disease processes can progress quickly in a matter of days. Any ferret over the age of 4 or a ferret that has existing health issues should visit the vet at least twice yearly.
• Get a complete blood panel done once yearly to obtain baseline readings. Ask your veterinarian to interpret the results for you if you don't understand what they mean. By becoming familiar with what the normal values are, you will be more aware of what is considered abnormal so you can participate in discussions with your vet about appropriate treatment options when needed.
• Keep track of your ferret's health status, eating habits, output, activity level and so on. Being aware of the overall appearance and day-to-day behaviours of your ferret is paramount in recognizing changes early that may signal potential problems. Write it down or make a mental note of anything out of the ordinary.

Some things to keep in mind;

• Ferret poopy is your friend, look at it! Watch for changes in colour, appearance or texture of stool. Often problems show up in stool first. Know what is normal for your ferret, and recognize abnormal such as black, green, slimy, foamy, mucous or sting-like.
• Lack of poop or pee is serious and can signify an obstruction, undiagnosed adrenal disease and prostate enlargement, bladder stones or infection.
• Urine should be yellow and not create puddles larger than your fur ball
• Ferrets play and explore till the day they die so know what's normal daily activity for your kid
• Food goes in and poopy comes out and any variation from this is bad
• Flat ferret does not always mean a pouting ferret. It can mean your fuzzy is 'hiding' for a moment, wants to be picked up, or it could mean that it is in fact unresponsive and suffering a hypoglycaemic seizure (low blood sugar related to insulinoma), staring blankly at nothing.
• Dehydration is insidious so don't ignore lethargy or lack of activity. Ferrets don't often tell us overtly that something is wrong, and this condition can quickly escalate into a life-threatening emergency.
• Ferrets rarely vomit. Repeated vomiting can be an obstruction or another serious issue that needs veterinary intervention. Again, your ferret is especially vulnerable to dehydration.
• Take note of how often and how much your fuzzy eats and drinks daily to know to catch any changes early
• Notice things! The button missing on your remote, the earpiece missing off your MP3 player, blankets that are chewed, or just something that appears to be amiss.check it out!
• If you get that "I don't know what is wrong but something is just not quite right." feeling, take it seriously. Parents know their kids best.

Medical issues

There are many medical issues with any pet but understanding the common ones and their signs and symptoms, combined with your foundation knowledge of your healthy fur ball is just good practice. Education leads to confidence in making a transport versus treatment decision for a ferret. Common signs and symptoms to be recognized as abnormal are;

• Lethargy or a decrease of normal activity level. Discreet or obvious can help determine how far along an issue is and whether this is a trip to the vets or some initial intervention.
• Abnormal stool. Welcome to the world of poop watching! Learn what is normal and what is not.
• Vomiting. Vomiting is normally not a good sign but some ferrets do vomit a few times in isolated incidences in the course of their life for minor reasons. A good rule of thumb is to note what the vomit looks like, food versus bloody or coffee ground looking, how often the ferret 'threw up' and environment such as extreme temperature or a recent vaccination.
• Teeth Grinding. This can mean pain or nausea and is often associated with gastric issues. This should always be investigated with a visit to the vet.
• Sneezing or coughing. Ferrets sneeze because their noses are often to the ground or in dusty corners. Take note of circumstance, frequency, and overall health of your fuzzy. An older ferret that progressively 'hacks' more frequently for no obvious reason needs to be seen by a veterinarian. Whereas a healthy, young ferret in the spring or fall may just need regular hairball treatment because of a partial obstruction caused by a forming hairball associated with the seasonal shed.
• Neurological stuff. Loss of balance, confusion, a tilted head carriage all warrants a visit. These issues could be something like a middle ear issue throwing off the ferret's equilibrium, a stroke, a tumour, a serious ear mite infestation or a fall from height that had gone unnoticed.
• Alopecia or hair loss. There are a number of causes depending on the pattern of hair loss. Some ferrets regularly develop 'rat tail' during the seasonal shed but hair loss that begins at the base of the tail and moves up the body is generally a sign for adrenal disease.
• Fur and skin. New onset coat or skin discolouration, such as having a distinct yellow or orange tinge, combined with other clinical signs such as rear leg weakness could indicate organ failure or a progressive disease.
• Abnormal behaviour. Strange behaviour such as aggression, dominance that is out of character, or increased hyperactivity other than the usual crazy baby thing can be a sign of adrenal cancer.

Some common diseases and medical conditions every ferret owner should be familiar with are:

• Insulinoma
• Adrenaloma
• Irritable bowel syndrome
• Lymphoma
• Foreign body obstruction
• Dehydration
• Allergic reactions
• Kidney or Liver failure
• Tumours and Cancer

Trauma

'Definitive care is rapid transport' is a motto that paramedics adhere to when dealing with trauma related emergencies. When an animal is hurt, get them assessed. For the most part, even minor looking issues can snowball if left. Ferrets, like children, have the ability to compensate well and then crash when it's too late if transport is delayed. Some common stories include a ferret that was found with a paw twisted and caught in bedding. The paw had swollen up through the night. Assessment was delayed over the weekend until normal business hours and circulation was never restored even after intense therapy so the ferret was euthanized before gangrene set in. Again, some things to keep in mind;

• Neurological issues related to falls and such can benefit from some medications within the first few hours but these treatments may have little effect if care is not immediate
• There is a window for open wounds to be closed and cleaned before bacteria and infection set in, normally about 4 to 6 hours depending on environment
• Surgical intervention needs to be timely for internal haemorrhage which can be insidious
• If your ferret is missing or if things are too quiet, find it
• If you have a gut feeling, like your ferret is in the dryer, check
• Being in a cage is not 100% safe, ever, so peaking in quietly is a good thing just to be sure
• It's what we can't see that is most worrisome

We don't mean to suggest that all ferret owners need to be completely paranoid for there is a medium ground between that and due diligence. Getting to know our fur kids, means we will be better equipped to sense or anticipate issues without being ridiculously overprotective.

Even if trauma is iatrogenic, meaning human caused, get your ferret seen. Accidents happen and these guys are always underfoot trying to kill themselves. It can happen to the best of us and I always believed my ferrets lived to a ripe old age despite my best efforts. Embarrassment is not a reason to delay treatment. Your pet's life is far more important than pride.

Have a plan

Ferrets are members of the family and like a family would have a fire safety plan for their house, so too should everyone be aware of what to do in case of a ferrety emergency.

• List phone numbers for vet clinics both emergency and regular
• List contact numbers for other ferret knowledgeable friends or organizations like the Ferret Rescue Society
• Keep a health record for each fuzzy, including age, recent illnesses or veterinary care and past medical history
• Have a carrier all set to go and know where to find it quickly

Finances

The middle of an emergency is the worst time to start worrying about money. Putting away a 'rainy day' fund means that if something does happen, decisions can be made based on quality of life as opposed to finances. Ferrets, for the most part, are fairly inexpensive pets on a day-to-day basis. Yearly checkups and vaccinations should be no more than $200 per fuzz butt. As a ferret ages, more frequent visits mean increased expenses. Where things can get hefty are the potential surgeries. Most surgeries are between $1000 and $2000. Most ferrets can handle surgery well and may live many happy years afterwards warranting such invasive procedures. Again, these decisions are best made when not worrying about available cash. The experts tell us that you should expect at least one surgery during the lifetime of your ferret. Open a savings account and be prepared!

Knowing when to go to the hospital

So, you are prepared and you have an up to date medical profile of your furry friend. You recognise something is amiss and now you have to make the decision whether to go to the hospital or manage things at home. Here are a few questions you may want to ask yourself:

• Is my ferret eating and drinking? Generally, if a ferret is still willing to eat and drink on it's own then certain emergency issues, such as a bowel obstruction are less likely. If the ferret is uninterested in food or fluids than something more serious could be the culprit. In addition, as the ferret becomes dehydrated, its appetite will worsen, compounding the dehydration, which leads to life threatening situations.
• Is my ferret still urinating and what does the stool look like? If a ferret is no longer defecating, and clinically looks unwell, then this is when you want to ask yourself whether some sort of obstruction could be the issue. If there's nothing going in and nothing coming out then this ferret needs to be assessed.
• When did the changes first begin? Is this an acute or progressive development? If you wake up one day to let your ferret out to play and it was lethargic and looking unwell in its cage, then this ferret needs to go to see a vet ASAP. If the ferret has been getting less active and losing weight over a period of time, then some home intervention and an appointment is prudent.
• Is this trauma related? Again, trauma needs to be assessed unless it's very minor.
• Is my ferret lethargic and uninterested in its surroundings? As a ferret ages it will sleep more and have one or two days of being less active and then a day of feeling 'frisky'. If this is a slow progression in an older ferret that regularly sees a vet then this may just be a job for some extra TLC. This is where noticing what is the norm is so important.
• Are the eyes clear and alert or do they look dull, and sullen? Any seasoned ferret owner will tell you about the 'dull look'. Assessment is most definitely warranted in this case. A ferret that has a dull, listless 'look' is more than likely quite ill.
• Will the ferret accept treats? This goes hand in hand with will the ferret eat and drink. If it's refusing treats that it normally loves, then it is really not feeling well.
• Along with some of the above questions, has there been any vomiting or diarrhea? Again, a little vomiting and diarrhea on its own is not as significant as combined with other clinical findings that are indicative of illness
• How comfortable am I dealing with this issue? Can I manage dehydration and force-feeding before I get assessment for an animal that just seems 'under the weather'.
• What do my ferret friendly contacts have to say if I'm not sure? Use other ferret owners or organizations as a resource!!! Ferret ownership feels like an art at times and there are many in the area that have been at it, and more than likely learning the hard way for you, for a very long time.

What more is there to say?

Remember that ferret ownership is a learning curve. As a paramedic, I always say that success is not necessarily based on the outcome of my patients but rather on the contribution to all involved in an incident. By this I mean that if we do what's best and learn from our harder lessons than we are successful. We fondly refer to ferrets as nature's own antidepressant and cherish the role they play in our lives. It would only make sense, then, to be ready for the good times and the bad, as we strive to have these fun loving kids live long and healthy lives. Good luck and enjoy!!!!!

Marybeth Stanistreet
President, Ferret Rescue Society of Ottawa
Revised Spring 2008

Well, the trend we’re seeing with human counterparts nowadays has to do with healthier lifestyles to promote mental and physical wellbeing. When we consider how our pets are an integral part of our families, it would only make sense that we would want to extend this newfound knowledge to include them. Whether it is a rat or a horse, we want our pets to live the longest and healthiest lives possible. We know now, more than ever, that diet and digestion influence disease prevention, length and quality of life, and directly affect mental health. The body has the inherent ability to do the things that drugs, supplements and medical intervention are intended for whether it be combating viral and bacterial invaders, preventing chronic medical issues or healing itself. Success begins with the right fuel, combined with other necessities such as exercise. Humans or animals, this is a variable we have control over.

OKAY…WHAT DOES MY FERRET NEED?

First of all, we have learned so much in the last number of years with respect to ferret dietary requirements, mainly through experience. In the past, ferrets were fed what the minks on mink farms received or a high quality kitten food. That sufficed at the time but we have certainly come a long way.

As some of you may know, ferrets have been domesticated for over 2500 years. Despite that, their dietary requirements, jaw strength, teeth, GI tract, metabolism, digestion, enzymes and bowel transit time have remained essentially the same as that of their ancestors, the Polecat. They are both hypercarnivores meaning they can only be carnivores unlike dogs, humans, and bears, which can adapt their diet to their environment. A polecat in the wild would catch a small rodent, rabbit, bug, reptile or bird, start at the head and eat its way to the tail. It essentially eats everything. That means bone, organs, brain, skin, hair, everything! They do not get much in the way of carbohydrates found in the intestinal tract of their prey and only eat this when they are starving. Therefore, it appears that ferrets and polecats need a high protein, high fat, low carbohydrate and low fibre diet.

OPTIMAL NUTRITIONAL VALUES

Ideally, a ferret’s diet should have 50 % to 60 % protein, 30 % to 40 % fat, and 1.5 % carbohydrates.

Historically, we have been more successful meeting these requirements at least somewhere in the middle.

DIET ALTERNATIVES

Again, ideally, we should be feeding our furkids whole adult mice or rats, chicks, or raw meat with bones, brains, organs, spinal cord and all……….Alright you say…Well, other than the disgust factor being quite high for most of our loving ferret homes, an ethical issue for some and the concern about contamination, (as we all know, ferrets like to stash and eat later….), it’s not entirely practical to feed. Not to mention, most kits are imprinted on kibble and adults are nearly impossible to switch to a more natural diet after 6 months to a year of age. Truthfully, kibble has been designed for the owner, and not the ferret.

What can we do? Well, we can have a good quality kibble available at all times, keep treats healthy and in moderate quantities and offer high calorie or high protein supplements daily or as required. For example, quality supplements can be any sort of raw meat like beef or chicken, scrambled eggs, Bob’s chicken gravy, some ‘duck soup’ recipes, chicken baby food, a prepared raw mix for carnivores found in pet health food stores, or real meat canned diets for cats and dogs. Wetting kibble is a poor option because there tends to be increased waste and quick spoilage and odour.

WHAT DOES A BETTER DIET HELP PREVENT?

IRRITABLE BOWEL AND OTHER INFLAMMATORY DIGESTIVE ISSUES

Kibble can be very hard on our ferret’s bodies. It has 9 - 10% moisture content that is less than a hard wood floor, which has 12 %. Ferrets have a short bowel and cecum and a rapid transit time of 3 – 4 hours. With feeding only dry kibble, ferrets are forced to drink more water to facilitate digestion. If too much fluid is ingested with solid foods, the stomach acids are diluted which can hinder the breaking down of foodstuffs. (This applies to humans as well). Also, unbeknownst to many owners, ferrets have no significant molar contact for grinding. They have rear molars for cracking bones and that is it…. this means the teeth only cut and kibble is simply crunched down into smaller chunks instead of a more palatable paste or mush. In addition, in order to be able to grind, their jaws must go sideways like a cow but a ferret’s jaw cannot as it has a lock with a special hinge to prevent displacement when cracking bones. Chronic inflammatory issues related to this mean that the ferret is not getting the necessary vitamins, and nutrients it needs, even in a kibble that is well balanced, in addition to the discomfort of an inflammatory process. Providing a softer, regular supplement like duck soup or real meat makes the necessary nutrients and such more available with less effort and compliments a kibble diet. For ferrets which are diagnosed with IBS, a daily duck soup recipe can be a life saver.

INSULINOMA

This could be attributed to the high carbohydrate level in the kibbles and treats that our ferrets eat throughout their life, as this issue is not common in countries where the ferrets are fed a diet closer to the evolutionary diet of a polecat. We know from research comparing the polecat with the domestic ferret that their carbohydrate requirement is essentially 0 %. That being said, not enough research has been done to date to learn what a safe daily carbohydrate level is that can be fed without having chronic, debilitating issues, like insulinoma. Also, to our knowledge, there have been no long-term studies on the actual health impact of a prolonged carbohydrate diet. This may mean that feeding raw meat is a good idea, remembering that ferrets cannot simply eat chicken breast and get all the necessary vitamins and trace nutrients. They would have to eat a whole chicken to get that. Again, this is not practical or as easy to feed as a good quality kibble when our Canadian ferrets are kept inside as pets instead of outside in barns or sheds as working animals. Without a more natural diet then, it becomes so important to stick with a high protein, low carbohydrate kibble, complimentary soft alternatives and to feed only healthy treats.

PERIODONTAL DISEASE

Unlike dogs and cats, eating kibble does not clean ferrets teeth. Their teeth are skinny, and narrow compared with other carnivores and so the kibble actually destroys the enamel over time, contributing to gingivitis, abscesses, loose and broken teeth, bone changes, bad breath and so on. Although counter-intuitive, it would be better to feed a soft supplemental diet twice daily to a ferret with these issues than give them hard stuffs to help combat the gum disease. Starches in the kibbles are converted to sugar in the mouth increasing plaque production. These starches also help feed the bacteria that form plaque, particularly under the gums. Studies have revealed that the dental wear rate is 3 to 5 times faster with more broken and avulsed (displaced) teeth while feeding kibble only diets than a real meat diet. Ideally, raw chicken bone would clean the teeth as the ferret crunches away. There has been some evidence that using dental pastes designed for pets to work with the mouth’s own enzymes may help control plaque build-up if used with some regularity.

IS A BETTER DIET MORE EXPENSIVE?

No…not necessarily. An adequate kibble, specifically designed for ferrets with high protein and low carbohydrate ingredients is very comparable if not cheaper than the lesser quality food. As well, the ferret will not feel as hungry and therefore eat less overall. With a low quality kibble that is mainly fillers, despite boasting its balanced ingredients, a ferret does not feel full. They digest so quickly that fillers and wasted ingredients zoom right through them, barely sating their hunger. They may even get ‘fat’, though it’s an unhealthy weight and the ferret continues to eat in excess to get what it needs. Again, an alternative, like feeding a soft, soupy supplement twice daily, using a better quality kibble ground in the mix, allows easier access to all the necessary nutrients and vitamins, being on the whole, far easier to digest. A heavier ferret may always be big, but the weight will be proportioned and less unhealthy looking. Actually feeding raw meat as the main diet, particularly that which is prepared for specifically for pets, can be pricy, keeping in mind it is unwise to feed wild rodents and such because of the risk of disease and parasites. Frozen adult mice, chicks and prepared meats are most appropriate and safer if such a diet was chosen. No matter what the main course may be or what sort of supplemental feedings are chosen, always provide availability to kibble. And remember, in the long run, a healthier ferret means less medical costs down the road.

WHAT ARE SOME APPROVED TREATS?

Totally Ferret bits and treats
Bandits
Ferretone
Nutrical
Raw meat, organs and bones
N bones

CAN I TEACH MY FERRET TO EAT A BETTER DIET?

Patience my friends…patience! Kits are imprinted on kibble so this transition is not going to happen overnight. The more variety young ferrets are exposed to, however, means they will be more accepting of new and different foods and supplements. This is beneficial in time of sickness when they need the duck soups with meds ingeniously hidden in them, and if a brand of food becomes unavailable. Older ferrets are harder to convince and to some degree with elderly ferrets, the concept of ‘if it’s not broke, don’t fix it’ may be prudent. Always do things slowly to start because a ferret that turns its nose up to a sudden change in diet can become dehydrated and ‘flat’ quickly.

A “duck soup” idea shared with our organization at the last IFC Ferret Aid Conference in Toronto was this:

Blend the ferrets kibble in a blender, adding some Ferretone for taste, and a soft food with little carbohydrates and high protein like canned real meat diet for cats or chicken baby food. Add water as needed and freeze the soup in ice cube trays. Thaw as needed. Start with half a cube defrosted and warmed and rub it on the ferret’s upper gums with your finger. At first, you may need to scruff but most of our kids will put up with just being held while this is done. Expect some ferrets will think you’ve lost your marbles and are trying to poison them. Be patient. The next time, do the same and encourage the ferret to lick the soup voluntarily off your finger. Slowly work your way to having it lick out of a dish while being held until the ferret will eat small amounts and then a meal on its own out of a dish. Provide this soup once or twice daily and make it a routine. When the ferret looks forward to it’s meal, (kibble and fresh water are still always available), you can consider starting blending raw chicken and parts into the mix or any additional ingredients depending on what is needed, as in the case of an illness. Start with a little so they don’t really notice and work your way up to larger amounts.

When introducing duck soup, a kit will be easier than an older ferret, as a ferret that’s always been exposed to variety will be easier than a one-kibble sort of kid. Remember, as well, that carbohydrates taste good and so a ferret that’s been fed cat food or a poorer quality food will more than likely turn its nose up at the new and healthier choices. If the ferret begins to gain too much weight, cut the feedings back. All ferrets should be familiar with a duck soup recipe should it ever be required in times of illness. Recipes can be found on the FRSO website and from experienced members.

OLDER FERRETS’ CONSIDERATIONS

Again, changing things for an older fuzzy can be a touchy scenario. Healthy older ferrets can have the same high protein foods as a kit but fuzzbutts with existing kidney issues may benefit from lower levels of protein. Ferrets are individuals, like people, and some will adjust to the better diets with little stomach and digestive issues, while others will not handle the change at all. Tread lightly in this area with your older kid and never be afraid to ask for advice from our ferret community, the Ferret Rescue Society or from a ferret knowledgeable veterinarian. At the end of the day, if an elderly fuzzbutt is doing quite nicely on what they’ve been fed their whole life, now may not be the time for big kibble changes. Duck soup is a life saver at any age but consider using the kibble they are used to in the mix.

SOME FOODS COMPARED

(This was provided by a presenter at the IFC conference in Toronto and unfortunately, some kibbles familiar to our local ferret community were not included).

Just a note, the canned versions generally hold fewer carbohydrates then the dry versions because it is the carbohydrates that hold the kibble together. However, with 78% moisture content, they have to eat a lot! Also, it was suggested that we consider the Hills M/D or Purina D/M diabetic diets. It was pointed out that the Purina version uses a high level of dry plant protein and the Hill’s may contain arginine, which increases insulin production so these are not suggested alternatives.

CONCLUSION

So there you have it folks! Will following some of these suggestions prevent illness and help your ferret live a long and healthy life? Well, there are obviously no guarantees but it sure looks like a good place to start. Food is the fuel that runs the body and the proper fuel makes for a cleaner, better running engine. Makes sense? In summary, clean, fresh water and a good quality ferret kibble should always be available for our ferrety friends. In addition, feeding a softer, more natural, high protein supplement regularly and sticking to healthier treats, combined with natural light and tons of enrichment and exercise is a good way of providing the best we can for these special pets

Marybeth Stanistreet, revised July 2010
President, Ferret Rescue Society of Ottawa

References

Bob Church, zooarcheologist and ferret lover, IFC Ferret Aid, Toronto, 2006

Dr. Dennilyn Parker, Assistant professor and exotic service chief at U of Saskatoon, IFC Ferret Aid, Toronto, 2006

Dr. Bruce Williams, chairman department of Telemedicine, pathologist armed forces institute of Pathology, VP of the CL Davis Foundation for the Advancement of Veterinary Pathology, IFC Ferret Aid, Toronto, 2006

Animal Planet, Ferrets, co 2007

How do we treat it?

There is no cure for ADV. Any care given to a ferret is mostly supportive to help control the symptoms. This may include:

• Steroids, like prednisone or dexamethasone
• Antibiotics for secondary infections
• Mineral and vitamin supplements
• Immunosuppressants